Our Moveable Feats

June 10, 2026

Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie -> Sauliac-sur-Célé

A causse is a geologic formation specific to the foothills of the Massif Central in France. A choppy translation would be “huge limestone plateau escarpment thingy”, and they define this area.

“Where has your water bottle gone?” is not what any semi-shattered backpacker wants to hear 8 hard km after the last rest-stop. Alas, we were indeed down one gourd, mine having likely squelched out as I re-mounted at the above cemetery, after a nice package lunch… another tribute to les morts.

Causse limestone is porous and soft, so adornments include overhangs, ancient bread ovens, resurgences, archways and of course troglodyte habitation. Modern troglodytes are just folks saving on their masonry bill by building right into the rock face, but they retain the name of prehistoric cave-dwelling types!

Alas, these causses are as abrupt as they appear: the views are paid for in sweat and neuromuscular capital. If our elevation profile were an EKG, we’d be in intensive care!

There are precious, almost-petrified midieval villages in the valley, which we hoped would replenish us upon each descent. We skipped the first, feeling a bit smug. At Saint-Sulpice, there was a canteen, yet it was closed (despite book and hostess guidance otherwise) and the proprietor shooed us from the private bathrooms. Hence, we ate cross-legged at the water-source cemetery and fed a scrawny cat.. We cleverly said we would “take the (our) piss from Saint-Sulpice”, but all we did was leave clean water in the bottle, last sighted above 😔.

With H2O running low, we dropped into Marcilhac, with slim hopes of anything being open at 1:50 and June apparently not yet being haute saison. And then, a Yorkshire accent wafted from beneath an awning that revealed the weekly gathering of ‘l’Association Sociale‘, just finishing up a scrumptious home-made meal. A harried matron-type informed us we were too late for food, but could have a drink if we joined the society. We were impressed that this ramshackle room had a QR code sign-up option… until our phones showed no service! Pas de problème, we could just sign the ancient book and voila! two lemonades (tasting much like Sprite) revived us enough to tour Marcilhac’s ravaged abbey before powering on.

Several hours later, we dragged our resigned selves into our glamp-ground destination only to be astonished by the comfort, hospitality and exquisite meals provided.

Causse celebre, indeed.