Our Moveable Feats

Canal, Plus

September 4, 2026

Moissac -> Auvillar

The hourglass time-warp rite of jet travel delivered us to Bordeaux a few days back and we acclimatized (to the times, heat, bustle and gluttony) as best we could! Then, ‘back to Moissac… carrying our packs… hope we don’t crack… 🎶

Fuelled and inspired by our sublime gîte hostess and a riverside supper, we picked up the trail, which was still warm from our June steps.

Summer’s still gasping to hold on here, with another mini-heatwave coming in a few days. We were thus stalking the slim lanes of Moissac before 8 AM and soon on the flattest trail possible – the canal-side multi-use voie verte. For 14km of shady bliss, we dodged cyclists, tried to pet a frisky golden retriever and leap-frogged fellow pilgrims.

The soothing shiny-milky-green canal is no longer a route for commerce, nor even pleasure that we could see. Maybe the SUP’ers and kayakers have yet to consider this potential playground?

The idyll was occasionally interrupted by poplar plantations which stumped us (haha) – these are almost nuisance trees back home. A sign gave some info: they grow quickly on this floodplain and are ground up for plywood; also there’s a wind-break function for orchards in between.

Then we swigged an Orangina among the old boys of Malause, who debated everything, including the directions to the restroom. Retirement in France must be so uncomplicated!

Then followed a long bridge over 2 canals and the Garonne river and a hot, exposed slog in sight of ominous modern towers. Sunflowers hung their wilted heads in sympathy.

The short steep climb into Auvillar (PBV^TM) welcomed new muscle groups and we momentarily felt like real hikers. It is a dainty place, all ochre brickwork and cobbled alleys, with a prosperous history, striped clock tower and a round grain-hall.

Our gîte predates Columbus, although it was a wine merchant’s home then: everything creaks, but not as much as we do. To fill some time, we went to the pilgrim mass, joyfully led by a priest from the DRC. Sometimes the chemin comes to you.