Blisters and the Sun

June 16, 2026

Lascabanes -> Lauzerte

*** warning – graphic content ahead ***

But, first, we broke fast with more rousing conversation (art, business, history…) before being released from Lascabanes. Weather, that universal icebreaker, didn’t require discussion as an unforeseen sweet blanket of cloud promised a morning of tolerable walking.

Our new and transient friend, a gentle seeker, accompanied us to Montcuq, during which we saw (and smelled) lavender fields, in classic worm-like formation.

Good thing we got the Montcuq jokes out of the way because the town is anything ‘butt’: quaint in earthy pastels and foliage, its massive tower on a hill is actually an old dungeon. No way were we going to take on any more climbing, however, and thus did our touristy thing on Montcuq’s central lane, sending a postcard and refuelling, which included S’s fave pastry, a Jésuite.

The sun was burning off our cloud cover, so we had to hotfoot it but got turned around by the ‘new’ GR route which didn’t align with our book or app. Eventually we were rewarded with a nice view back. The following scenery was a bucolic mix of gold and green fields, white trails and stepped climbs.

We really felt the cumulative toll of 8 days walking! Messages were received:

Our guide at Pech Merle had a cute accent, and pronounced animals’ ‘paws’ as ‘pows’ 🐾. Our feet were no longer human, but ‘pows’ and mangled, fiery ones at that . We took a break to air them (by a strange fruit tree 😉) before a final tortuous descent ahead of the dreaded climb into Lauzerte.

Lauzerte is a PBVTM, and, under normal circumstances, we’d ramble all about its charming lanes, galleries and viewpoints. Running on empty, however, we apérod in the ‘lifted’ square and got an elevated selfie.

Our gîte was a larger scale operation: efficient, clean and cool. At dinner, we pondered a radical move, when, a Frenchwoman 2 seats over blurted through a wall of Belgian banter, that she was in agreement…

OK, now, dear reader, please avert your eyes or close your browser if you’re squeamish!

Hmm. Alcohol does have some health benefits, after all! 😉

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