Our Moveable Feats

September 28, 2024

Vaylats -> Cahors

We awoke, refreshed, into the mild funk of yak wool, with mixed feelings. The physical journey ends today, but there’s a sense another passage has begun…

We lurched into that crispness that defines autumn’s hold on the year; bundling and haste warmed us in time. The landscape was rather desolate, the enduring result of a blight a few centuries ago. This added sincerity to our last day of pilgrimage.

The route was relaxed, with a few clay-mud traps and some mere hills. Beyond the scrubby oaks and chestnut trees, there was much moss, some undressed sheep and ?ritual sites.

A few restoration breaks later, we were on the final finale, across a gravelly, braided ridge, under ‘Simpsons’ clouds… we were slowing now, savouring the steps, reflecting…

The descent to Cahors was bittersweet and redemptive. We saw the (Unesco-approved) Pont Valentré, which we’d clambered over 3 years ago, wondering about the gold shells on its deck. The toes’ and knees’ complaints went unheeded. We were now at the culmination, the closing of a loop, and perhaps the unfurling of another.

Switchbacking down, we staggered into gritty urbanity, dazzled by the hectic motion, noise and diesel fumes. Across the Lot via the ‘pilgrim bridge’ (more gold shells) and into the octroi pilgrim welcome, in a converted toll building –très à propos!

Lemonade was sipped, a tear or 6 were shed, as were S’s poles. It’s rather staggering at the moment, being released from the rhythm of the chemin. We’ve a few lessons learned and many reflections to come.

Bon chemin & bon courage a tous!