Our Moveable Feats

September 22, 2024

From the desk of Terri

Today is a rest day. A well deserved down day to let feet recover and legs relax. It brings a slightly unsettled feeling, but I am taking advantage! It allows me some band width to share some of the thoughts I have been having as I walk and walk and walk.

In the past few days I have have been thinking a lot about language. Specifically, French language. This is my 7th trip to France and every time I come home with a commitment in my heart to become fluent. I have a husband who is fluent and children who are varying degrees of same.  I mean, how hard can it be??  Well each and every time I arrive home I fire up the Duolingo and ….. then lose interest or get too busy. Obviously learning in an immersive way is preferred. Obviously.  But, my Lord mon Dieu, this is difficult!  I feel grateful to have Stef as my personal translator but I am filled with feelings of ineptitude that I cannot converse well at all.  

Here are some examples of what it is like to be in a country where you do not speak the language well:

Along the chemin the customary thing to do when passing by another Pilgrim is to say ‘bon chemin’. I am embarrassed to admit that on more than one occasion I have said, with a smile on my face, ‘bon chien’. Not realizing my faux pas until I see the querulous look on their faces.  

I seem to smile and nod a great deal when I do not understand. This in no way helps my cause. This gives the speaker the non-verbal cue that I am absolutely following what they are saying. I am not. I am making up a story in my head of what I think they are saying. The outfall of this can be challenging. So, I have tried to mitigate this misunderstanding by simply not making eye contact or by looking at Stef when I am being spoken to.  I am keenly aware that many must think me a ‘trad wife’ looking for confirmation or permission before answering. Ugh. 

The most difficult piece of the language barrier for me is isolation. I am a talker, I am curious and have so much to ask and to say. It is impossible for me here. I can order food, ask basic questions but what I really want to know are the deeper questions of living in France, of walking the chemin, of our similarities and differences in culture. So, when I cannot voice these questions, I shrink back, I don’t engage, I retreat and that does not feel good. Not good at all. We stayed in a wonderful gîte 2 nights ago with 14 of us joining together in a communal dinner. I was the only English speaker. It was a vibrant group made up of French people of different ages and interests. The chemin, of course, gave us all common ground. I watched Stef’s eyes brighten as they all chimed in with stories of their trail experiences, comparing notes, making jokes. Stef was in his element (maybe because I wasn’t overshadowing him with my constant chatter???). It was exhausting for me to try to follow along and although Stef was translating for me, it was so difficult to be on the outside looking in. 

So, if you hear of a pilgrim who walks along shouting French phrases, looking for confirmation of pronunciation from her husband, that is me.  So far I have mastered the rolled ‘R’ through deliberate, daily practice on the chemin. I have some really helpful phrases in my back pocket and will keep learning. I do think that perhaps a few weeks of language immersion school in the south of France could help.

Five more of days of walking to go (it is actually HIKING, I feel like I was misled). The weather is changeable but we are prepared. In the meantime, Figeac is surrrrrprrrrenant – a medieval town with a fabulous museum and some decent wine. 

The Champollion Museum is based around M. Champollion who deciphered the Rosetta Stone in the early 1800’s. I could really use his help!

What’s not to like?