Our Moveable Feats

September 15, 2024

Montgros -> Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac

A breathtaking day, in all ways!

We’re getting used to carb-y breakfasts of croissants, baguette, runny yogurt, home-made jam, honey and mid-quality coffee, but today’s was critical to fortify ourselves for a windy ice-box start.

A short walk into the chi-chi nestled town of Nasbinals, where dozens of pèlerins were already mustering. In need of a pharmacy, we realized it was Sunday, so settled for a boulangerie… maybe the way to satisfy sore feet is via the stomach?

So, back, back to the Aubrac! This curvaceous, windswept expanse had us lulled again… and then, we breached a gate into the wild cattle zone (no bikes! no pups!). Well, these lovely Aubrac cows, with their Audrey Hepburn eyes and general nonchalance add a touch of colour and lazy motion to this place.

We were digging the bovine bliss and some tree shelter until

This monumental bull was guarding the bridge where the trail crossed a brook! We inched gently by downstream… his harem was safe.

Next was the stronghold of (just) Aubrac and its timeless church / tower / refuge for pilgrims and ranchers.

After coffee and more croque-monsieur, it was southward out of the gusty bleakness and down, down beyond the Lozère département and into the Aveyron. Forests re-appeared around us and rubble underfoot.

Some fancy footwork and ‘mogul poles’ were required on the tedious descent but we made Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac in time for our apéro in a sun-dappled square, alongside globs of other hikers. St. Chély must be the patron saint of strong ankles!

Our hotel is semi-swanky, the buffet meal, robust and we’re always given the uppermost room… it must be because we look so fit… yeah, that’s it!

our view – what else? des vaches!